Chapter 3: I know we'll have to fight soon

Posted by Leo. This is the third installment in a short fictionalized series by Leo.


The sun breaks over the cold valley and spreads across our camp. I hear a rustling next to me. I get out of my tent and poke the tent next to me. Max yells and all the other soldiers come out and look around. Now I’m the jokester.


Part of our daily chores is to dig trenches around our camp. Max and I start digging which is when we meet another young boy named Timothy. He tells us that he was raised on a farm in Germany near Munich. He was well taken care of but never got his way since he has four sisters and brothers. We talk about our lives before the war. Max tells us a little even though he doesn’t like talking about it. All he really tells us is that, “bridges are better than sewers”. I feel bad for Max because his life before the war was tough, no friends, no family, all by himself.


At noon everyone is hot and tired but the commander forces us to continue working. Some people are allowed to get water and some people rub snow on themselves to stay cool. Max, Timothy and I get water because we don’t like how the snow feels and we know it will give us rashes. The commanders are mean. If we don’t finish our work during the day we don’t get dinner or breakfast the next morning. This is particularly hard for Max who isn’t very strong. At the beginning he does well because he’s skilled but he doesn’t have much stamina to continue. The commanders force Max to keep going and limit his breaks. Timothy and I finish before him and want to help but the commanders won’t let us. By the time he’s done working the sun has gone down.


During the night we hear fighting in the distance echoing in the valley. I’m scared. They’re getting closer to us and we know that we’ll have to fight soon.

Museum Row

The Brohan Museum

Posted by Griffin.Yesterday we went to Museum Row in Berlin. Museum Row is one block that houses 5 of Berlin's top museums. Unlike Museum Island, coming in a later post, which houses 5 extremely large museums, the museums on Museum Row are small specialty museums. As we set out to leave yesterday Leo got, what I shall call, museum stomach. This mysterious illness only strikes when we are heading to art museums and causes severe stomach cramping and overly dramatic nausea. So after a drawn out battle, Leo remained at home. From the outset Elizabeth was adamant that she could only handle 2 out of the 5 museums, however the museums were so amazing that she managed three in one day!

The Berggruen Museum

The first museum  was the Brohan Museum (pictured above). The Brohan Museum is a specialty museum which only features the finest works of the Art Nouveau and Art Deco movements. The exhibits in this museum presented a delightful collection of lighthearted decorative arts from around the turn of the 20th century. One of the finest works, in my opinion, from this museum was the peacock vase (pictured below) done by Hans Christiansen. Overall the Brohan Museum was an easy visit, the exhibits were aesthetically pleasing and the clean white walls juxtaposed with the vibrant colors of the exhibits provided a very calming atmosphere to enjoy this amazing art. The Brohan Museum is most assuredly a must for any art lover visiting Berlin.

The Peacock Vase by Hans Christiansen

 
 The second museum was the Berggruen Museum. This was a themed museum focusing on "Picasso and His Time". The museum featured many works by Picasso, as well as works that had an influence on him, such as the works of Braque and traditional African art. While the permanent collection was amazing the travelling exhibition entitled "SIDEWAYS: Alexander Calder- Paul Klee" was breathtaking. The exhibition featured mobiles by Calder which seem to defy all sensibility. They remove the viewer from a world governed by logic and transport them into a world of the impossible. Watching these sculptures I couldn't help but become transfixed as the pieces slowly moved with the slightest breeze.  In this exhibit the sculptures don't stand alone but but interact with the paintings of Klee. While the travelling exhibit was one of the best I have seen the permanent exhibition didn't stand out from the crowd of Picasso museums across Europe like the one in Paris which I loved. Overall the museum could be missed if not for the Calder and Klee exhibition.

Homage a Goya by Odilon Redon

Untitled (Dancing Stars) by Alexander Calder

The third and final museum of the day was the Scharf-Gerstenberg. This museum was another specialty museum which focused on Surrealist Art. Before entering this museum Beth had to take her leave, for unnamed reasons but museum stomach seems to be the prime suspect. So now only Elizabeth remained to accompany me through Museum Row. The works in this museum were markedly different from the works in the previous two. Instead of creating calm they brought about a primal fear of being stranded. Recurring motifs were dead babies, tentacles that appeared to be strangling people, and desolate landscapes. The work above, Homage a Goya, was one of the more pleasant works, mainly because it didn't make me afraid for my life. Quite unfortunately we were not able to experience the full effect of this terror due to 2nd and 3rd floors being closed for renovation. Overall this museum would be great for people who love psychedelic horror movies and enjoy looking at what quite possibly could be a dead toddler warped in tissue paper. 

The Scharff-Gersenberg Museum 

Chapter 2: So here I am

Posted by Leo. This is the second installment in a short fictionalized series by Leo.

Yesterday we left for France. I was worried about what would happen next. People told me it was an awful place to go. It’s said that people die there daily and it’s not uncommon to see your friends die.

It was hard to leave home. Going to the middle of nowhere with a bunch of men. The train ride was hard. We were in a cargo car with hay bales. Max dumped his water on people to make them laugh. Max is a great companion. He always makes the worst situations seem bearable and funny. He likes to make people laugh. Only once have I seen him struggle, when we were in training camp and Max was bullied because he’s not as strong as the others. This was tough for him.

While we got off the train I was thinking. I’m a young Jewish boy fighting for the Nazis. No one knows this because my family comes from other places. I’ve lived in Germany all my life but both my parents are from elsewhere. At home we hide the fact that we’re Jewish. We never go to Synagogue. We never celebrate holidays. Even when I turned 13 I didn’t have a Bar Mitzvah. I feel sad about this but also lucky. If I had a Bar Mitzvah the Nazis would know we are Jewish and would have taken us away. So here I am.

It’s cold here in France. Snowflakes are starting to come down. Everyone has unloaded their stuff and Max and I and I are sitting by a campfire to keep warm. People are telling us to move because we’re sitting on the boxes of food. Max and I set up our tents and as I’m falling asleep I realize I could die here on the front line. Anything could happen.

Chapter 1: I'm forced to join the army

Posted by Leo. This is a fictionalized account of war time in Berlin as told from the perspective of a young Jewish boy hidden amongst the German Nazis. This is the first in a short series by Leo.

Berlin, Germany 1939. War was breaking out and many German boys joined the Hitler Youth Academy. I myself have not joined because I am Jewish and it is not in my blood to be a Nazi. Even though I am Jewish many people do not know this. Only my family and no one ever mentions it.

My name is Alban Shoft and I have lived in Germany all my life. My father came from Sweden and my mother is British. We are not pure German but no one can tell that. The problem that is happening now is the draft. A horrible thing. A draft is where the government picks names and those people have to enter the army.

Today was my first day out of school because I had my name drawn out of the box. Even though I am not in the Youth Hitler Club I am still forced to join the army. At age 16 I am a tall 6’ 2”, 180 pounds, and I have my mother’s blue eyes and my dad’s dusty blonde hair. I have played sports before and am quite big for my age.

My first day in the army was hard. I was yelled at and criticized for not being able to do 50 chin ups. People always told me I was a strong fellow but thinking back to it I can’t take their word for it. Many kids can hardly do 10 chin ups but I can do 30.

Today I made a friend, Max, a boy my age who loves to play pranks on people and is always trying to get attention from Lieutenant James Carter, a former British officer. We decided that it would be best if we stuck together just in case we needed help when we were in battle. Many senior officers agreed and said people should be grouped within a squad.

The last day of training was hard but now we are off to the front where we will be fighting the allied forces. The journey is a long way from home and judging by the looks of people in the medical bay most people won’t come back without a scratch.

Flea markets and street art in Berlin

Posted by Elizabeth. Our first day in Berlin and it's Sunday which means flea markets for the locals. So we headed to the Boxhagenerplatz market just a few blocks away from our Freidrichshain apartment. I'm not usually a flea market aficionado but it's fun in another county and especially in East Berlin where old junk has a lot of history. 

The quite large market is full of dishwear and clothes and records (yes tons of them) and doorknobs and cameras and everything else that sits in basements waiting to be sold. It was packed with hipsters and families and elderly couples perusing the wares. We left without buying anything (although full disclosure, Beth returned after leaving us at home and is still there). 

On our way home we stopped by the former industrial complex now urban outdoor art/gym/market which I believe is called R.A.W.  These photos of the outdoor art don't do it justice. There's an indoor/outdoor bouldering gym in a decaying brick building, a skateboard park housed in an old factory, an outdoor cafe and walls and walls of amazing graffiti art. Thanks to John Zilavy for his Berlin recommendations! 

Beth just walked in with her flea market find. 

Istanbul for the senses

Posted by Elizabeth. We left Turkey yesterday and entered an entirely different world in Berlin. For one thing it's cloudy and gray. A lot like you would expect here but so different than hot humid Istanbul. It's quiet. Traffic laws seem to be a thing. And everyone looks a lot like Seattle outdoorsy hipsters.

So it feels familiar. Which isn't how I felt in Istanbul. But there's something very compelling about Istanbul -- it's a fascinating city which feels both draining and invigorating at the same time. It's definitely a city for one's senses which makes these photos of Istanbul food seem an appropriate tribute. A huge thank you to our hostess and baker extraordinaire, Hatice, who created a serene oasis for us is the midst of the busy city. We are so grateful. 

Call to prayer wakes me up

The Blue Mosque in Istanbul

Posted by Leo. The call to prayer happens six times a day in Muslim countries. It is called from the mosque, a dome building. Today they use a speaker but they used to use four holes pointing north, south, east and west so everyone could hear.

The call to prayer is done by the Muezzin in the mosque. In Turkey it's called ezan. During the morning you can wake up to the sounds of calling. The calls are two hours before daybreak, daybreak, afternoon (when the shadows cast by objects are equal to their height), sunset and when the last light has disappeared.


I think it's loud but pretty. It wakes me up and it's even louder than the roosters we heard on the coast. I like that it's peaceful. It helps calm me down.


Here is what they are saying:
Turkish                                    
Allahu Ekber
 Eşhedû en lâ ilâhe illallah
 Eşhedû enne Muhammeden resulullah
 Hayya ale-salah
 Hayya alel-felah
 Allahu Ekber
 Lâ ilahe illallah


English  
God is Great
 There is no god but God
 Muhammed is the Prophet of God
 Come to prayer
 Come to salvation
 God is Great
 There is no god but God


Sail on Sailor
Click here to listen: www.youtube.com/watch?v=vzfZvr05HJ4

And the trek continues

Our trek with the Silverman Wilkes

Posted by Elizabeth. After a day of rest at our beautiful hotel (we got to check off infinity pool which was on Leo's trip wish list) we headed out for another 9km day. Now 9km doesn't sound like much unless you're walking straight up and down goat trails. Which is basically what we did for 5 hours. Every muscle in my body hurt.

We've been trying to understand why the Lycians picked this route to traverse the coast. It's not exactly an easy stroll to the next town. But the views of the Mediterranean and the local flora and fauna are spectacular. Day 3 saw us climb through canyons and rocky cliffs jutting out over the blue sea and wander through grassy meadows dotted with baby goats being called by herders who's job appears to be keeping the rambunctious young ones in line between smoke and Facebook breaks.

We ended the day with a vertical climb to the top of the world where we stayed at a guest house perched in the clouds. Sitting on the deck overlooking the hills and sea eating a homemade Turkish dinner erased all memory of the painful ascent.

Our favorite Silverman Wilkes have posted some amazing shots of our trek on their blog along with more details on days 4 and 5. Thanks for the great time dear friends. We will always cherish these memories. You are rock star hikers and friends!

They had it easier than us with their hoofs and such

Sometimes scary cliff hiking

Happy hikers

Lycian Way: We didn't get lost!

Posted by Max and Elizabeth. Yesterday our two families, the Silverman Wilkes and Scott Rifers (9 people in all) began our six day hike along the Lycian Way. The Lycian Way is a 540 km path along the Mediterranean coast of southern Turkey from Oludeniz to Geyikbayırı. We will cover about 25 km from Faralya to Patara.


Last night over dinner at the Olive Garden (not to be mistaken with the chain in the suburbs of America) we discussed our favorite memories of the first day on the trail. Definitely not to be forgotten.

• Leo: "I looked in the mirror."
• Romi: "What did you see?"
• Leo: "I saw my true love."
• Caleb: My highlight was making it to two beaches."
• Noah: "Not getting lost."
• Caleb: Getting Elizabeth out of the bush."
• Romi: Making it here safely."
• Griffin: "Getting 100 percent on my lit paper without reading the book." 
• Sue: "An amazing view around every corner."
• Beth: "Pushing ourselves physically and mentally. Watching our children on an amazing hike."
• Max: "The reward of swimming in the Mediterranean Sea."
• Elizabeth: "The strong tree that saved my life."

 

A Mediterranean view and Leo's resignation

Posted by Leo. At the hotel where we are staying in Faralya, there are all sorts of people. So far, we have met many Americans and we have seen many amazing views. Right now, I’m looking over the Mediterranean Sea. We are on a hill with steep slopes leading to the beach with small cabins covering the hill. The road to get here is pretty sketchy with steep cliffs on one side. The mountain is rocky but is covered with trees and bushes.

The sky is gray this morning. I’m hoping for no rain but there might be some. In two days, we are leaving for a five day trek with Caleb. We heard some people talking about the walk and they said it took seven and a half hours for the first day. As a group of nine it will probably take us longer, more like eight and a half to nine hours a day of walking. The great part is that we will get to a new place and, BAM, it will be on the beach. I can’t wait to start the walk. I have enjoyed posting and seeing the comments and feedback. Sadly, this will be my last post due to me being lazy.

Many regards,
Leo (Sail on Sailor)

Management note: We would like to note that Leo’s resignation has not been accepted by his superiors and he will be back to blogging after a short trekking hiatus. We look forward to many more posts from Leo once he comes to his senses.

Our brush with the law in Turkey

Posted by Elizabeth. For some reason I didn't buy a map of Turkey. I guess I imagined we would just find our way or use Google Maps to plot our course. You would think I would know better. I have a sordid history with Google Maps. One that involves a trecherous drive from Milan to Florence over a snowy mountain.

Remote areas don't seem to be its specialty. I get that. Who's out here capturing these mountain roads and dirt paths? So I shouldn't have been surprised by the circuitous route Google chose from Pamukkale to Faralya. It started off fine. A great highway through stunning country. It soon led to a windy road over snow capped mountains. 

Which is where we were pulled over by the Turkish gendarme. We came upon the roadblock at the top of an overpass. Two police vans and about eight officers. There were a couple of cars pulled over ahead of us and we scrambled to remember where we had stashed our passports and licenses. 

We got to the officers and Beth opened the window. Six or so men surrounded our car and looked in all the windows. Without saying anything we could understand they all walked back to the van. After a minute they came back and  asked us to open all our windows. Obediently and maybe stupidly we did. They reached in towards Griffin and Leo but instead of asking them to get out of the car they handed them Turkish flags and chocolate eggs filled with toys. With big grins they all exclaimed, "Happy Children's Day!" 

Turns out it was a national holiday. Whew. 

Swimming with Roman ruins

Posted by Leo. Pamukkale (Turkey) is beast. It is a white covered mountain. It reminded me of snow but when I stepped onto it I realized it was rock. The rock was hard with water running down it. It went down the entire mountain with little streams and pools. The mountain was made out of calcium left behind when the water evaporates.

My friend Caleb was with me. We ran up the mountain. The water was warm in some places but cold in others. At the top there is a hot springs pool where the water comes from. 

The hot springs was shaped organically with Roman ruins in the water. People like Caleb stubbed their toes on them. You could see a Roman amphitheater nearby. We swam in the water for hours and it was really warm. 

It's fun having Caleb here rather than being alone with my family. 

Max and Romi at Pamukkale