Headed to Cinque Terra

Posted by Elizabeth. We're on the train from Rome to La Spezia for a few days in the Cinque Terra. A huge thanks to Monica and Marcello for their lovely home in Rome!

The Cinque Terra is the real reason we are on this trip. Two years ago I was reading the Sunday New York Times as I do every Sunday morning. The travel section had a perfectly perfect photo of a town in the Cinque Terra. I must have been going through a rough patch in life. I went to yoga that morning and couldn't stop thinking about that hill town and how I had to find a way to spend time abroad. I felt that life was slipping away from me -- the kids getting older, us getting older, days just following one another with little purpose.

So here we are headed to that little hill town. I still can't believe we made it happen. The decision to go was the hardest. After that it's just a to do list. 

It's not always easy (yesterday's visit to the Vatican museums was a disaster) but we're here together with days full of newness. I'm so thankful my family is up for this adventure.

Papal Audience

The view from our seats 

Posted by Griffin. On Wednesday we awoke before the sun, and set out to have an audience with the Pope. We took the subway to Vatican City, only about 15 minutes away, and then prepared to wait. We got in line outside of St. Peter's Square at 6:45 and waited until 8 to be let in. In this line we met a very aggressive Portugese father who was determined not to be behind anyone. He pushed and shoved his way to the front in order to see the Pope. At 8 the gates opened and peopled flooded past guards who were completely complacent. In the struggle that ensued everyone ran for seats, fortunately we had planned ahead and cut right to the best seats in the entire square, front row. 

Finally after about 2 hours of waiting the Pope emerged. He came surrounded by his entourage, who handed babies to him so that he could kiss them. After that it wasn't as exciting, however he blessed us, which was cool. As soon as the Pope finished speaking the whole section around us burst into cheers. Turns out we sat right in the middle of the Papal Cheer Squad. They screamed their hearts out for "Papa Francisco", imagine the Sounders cheering squad but more religious. Overall it was an amazing experience, definitely worth waking up at 5 for.

The pope and his entourage on the move

A welcome oasis in busy Rome

Posted by Elizabeth. Rome is a city of parks. I didn't know this about the city. There are a couple well known ones like Villa Borghese but there are also many, many others.

Beth and I stumbled on one blocks from our apartment without realizing it was a huge ancient valley full of green space and ruins and goats and a community garden. Oh and a castle or two. I think it's the most beautiful park I've ever seen. Full of happy people running and biking and kissing and playing.

Rome is also a city of horrible traffic, loud motor scooters, crowded subways and packed sidewalks. Which makes the parks that much better. 

Roman blood sport

Posted by Leo. Gladiator fighting was a common thing for the Romans. At first they only had fights when one of their dads died and they sacrificed the dead Gladiator in his honor. Then, people liked the fights and wanted them to occur more often so they had fighting whenever anyone died. People would claim their dad died 20 years ago and they would have a fight. Then there uncle died and more fights.

Under the Coliseum floor

The women watched the fights and most people called them "devils from hell" because they would laugh at a man’s death. The gladiators were famous even though they were the lowest of low. They were slaves. Many the people loved the fights and they had signals for live or kill if a man was going to slay another. Not many children came but, when they did, their mothers and fathers would tell them to yell for the death of a man.

This was known as the Roman blood sport. Many people died in these games and some people entered just for fame and glory thinking it was going to be easy.

When I went to the Coliseum I was shocked by its size and the corridors underground for the Gladiators. I felt bad for the Gladiators fighting one another, you could even fight your best friend. They always wanted a fair fight, 1v1 man to man, with only helmets, shields and a weapon of their choice. That’s all they were allowed to have.

A perfect stay in the city of water

Posted by Elizabeth. After the first day of rain in Venice the sun came out and the water sparkled in full glory. We stayed in a sweet apartment next to the Giardini Bienielle (thank you Anna!) and enjoyed the neighborhood which was free of tourists and has a fun main street lined with shops, restaurants and bars full of locals. 

Venice has a familiar feeling. The water and air feel the same as Seattle. But the architecture, cobblestone streets and meandering canals are magical. 

The boys and I spent an afternoon at the Guggenheim (you can read Leo's post for his opinion of modern art). I love the museum for it's big open rooms and light filled spaces. It doesn't have the heavy feeling of the other palazzos. Yesterday we explored the city. The Jewish ghetto is fascinating. The Jewish people were kept within the small neighborhood for 200 years with guards at the two bridges.  There are four or five synoguogues within a couple blocks. It appears to still be home to an active Hasidic population who were enjoying the sabbath at the fantastic kosher eatery, Gam Gam (we, unfortunately had cranky kids so couldn't stay). 

This morning Griffin and I strolled along the water to the Doges Palace to see the Henri Rousseau exhibit. A very well done collection of his art and others influenced by his style. Frida Khalo, Diego Rivera, Cezanne, Picasso, and Klee were just some of the artists who admired his work. As we were leaving at noon a cacophony of church bells in St Mark's Square surrounded us. We topped the morning off with Italian cappuccino on a sidewalk looking out to the water. 

On the train to Rome now and looking forward to sandal weather. 

 

Even a baby could have done that

Posted by Leo. Here in Venice everything is pretty with canals all over and gondolas going by. Gondolas are skinny long boats that skim on the surface of the water. So far I’ve seen many great sights. At a bookstore there were gondolas used as bookshelves and the door at the back opened up to a canal where you could sit and read at the water side. But when a boat went by you got a little surprise.

We went to the Peggy Guggenheim museum yesterday. There were a few good pieces but I don’t really enjoy art as you know. Compared to the art in the Uffizi museum it was much more modern with just a bunch of splashes of paint. There was one painting with a background of red paint and up front there was blue paint. It was called Red and Blue. I think even a baby could have done that. The Jackson Pollack painting, called Alchemy, was pretty cool because he used a different style of painting than other people. He threw the paint on the canvas that he laid on the ground.

The views of the bridges are amazing and the Grand Canal is stunning but there are only two bridge crossings. That meant a lot more walking.

Food we love (and food we hate to love)

Posted by Elizabeth. Here's a list of the food we love most in Europe. This goes back to southern Spain. We are really loving our food.

1. Coffee. It's way way better here. Even at the train station and bus stops you can get better coffee than in Seattle. We've learned to make Italian coffee in a little metal pot that you screw together. Even Griffin is drinking coffee daily.
2. Pastries. Sad to say but the pastries here are amazing. Spain was the best by far but Italy has some good ones particularly the cookies with almonds. Plus there is a bakery every other shop so it's easy to get a daily fix.
3. Blood oranges. Yum. Juicy and sweet and amazing. These are an Italian thing.
4. Cheese. A special shout out to mozzarella and ricotta which are a completely different breed than those in the US. The other cheeses are amazing too. Definitely no cheddar. Cheese shops are as common as bakeries.
5. Olive oil. Need I say more? We use it on everything, even breakfast.
6. Homemade fresh pasta. They sell it everywhere in Italy, even the supermarket. The best comes from special pasta shops which seem to be in every neighborhood. It's light and delicate and nothing like boxed dried pasta.
7. Chianti wine. No comment.

I'm trying hard to walk off my calories but I think the culinary goodness is winning. I'm hoping the food in Turkey is terrible.

Locked in a bathroom

Climbed out this window

Posted by Leo. As soon as we got to Venice we took a boat bus to an island. When we arrived I was feeling really bad because I get motion sick. The boat rocked back and forth the entire time. We ran in the pouring rain to the apartment where half way through we met the person who was running to meet us to show us the apartment. When we arrived I was relieved -- soaking wet and pretty mad but for me that’s normal. The apartment is nice.

I really had to go to the bathroom and I saw a key on a table so I picked it up and went to the bathroom. I locked the door and the when I tried to unlock it did nothing. I called out and I could hear people talking about what to do on the other side of the door. I heard my brother laughing. That really got under my skin and I yelled at him to shut up. I was really desperate at this time so I went out the window and I could see the kitchen window but in between was about 7 feet and a 10 foot drop. I ended up jumping out the window to the roof next door and throwing the key to my mom and then they unlocked it from the other side.

Choppy waters on the boat

 

Leaving Florence

Posted by Elizabeth. We're on the train to Venice and so sad to leave Firenze. A beautiful city and a wonderful family as our hosts. Anna and Doreen, thank you for everything and we hope to see you again. Your home and family are beautiful and we felt part of the family. 

We're on the fast train to Venice. Not sure it's very fast since it is stopping quite a bit but it's the most comfortable train I've ever been on. Plush seats, power, high tech lighting and lots of room. Amtrak could learn a thing or two. I'm a big fan of trains and this one tops the list. 

A few days ago Beth, Leo and I went to the Stibbert museum near our apartment in the hills above Florence. The Stibbert family lived in a lovely villa just off Via Bolognese and amassed a vast collection of armory. When the last of the family died they left the home, garden and collection to the city as a museum. We had the extra treat of walking there from our own villa down windy ancient roads. 

I've included some photos of the collection but I'm not sure they do it justice. There were rooms and rooms of Knights in armor and a massive hall full of Knights on horseback, all fully clad in stunning metallic gear. Such a different concept of warfare than our own which seems so crude and ugly in comparison. 

They also collected swords and guns and other weapons which had their own artistic beauty. 

On to the city of water...

Knights and fresh air

Stibbert Museum Florence

Posted by Leo. Yesterday when we went to the Stibbert Museum I was expecting it to enrage me. I enjoyed the first half of the museum where it was a collection of knight’s armor and weapons. There were spears to muskets. I got to try on some chain mail and it was really heavy. After this part it went to paintings and that just ticked me off. From awesome to dullness. I was hoping for more stuff.

One suit of armor stood out to me. It was all black with chain mail inside and on the outside it was shiny and had design on the helmet with a slit for eye holes. It was shaped like a lion’s head.

There was also a garden there that looked really pretty. If you didn't know, gardens are one of the few things from the past that I enjoy. It’s so nice in gardens with a fresh smell and dirt on the ground. Many people might be surprised about this but I love fresh air, nature and anything like this. Once in Barcelona there was a museum and there was a massive garden with a pond with fish, flowers, bushes, trees and much more. I liked the garden.

Street art

Florence has amazing street art. Blub is the artist above and Clet the stickers on street signs. We snapped a lot of shots on our walk around town today. 

 

A boy's best friend

Posted by Elizabeth. One of the hardest parts of traveling for six months is being away from our pets. We know they are well loved by Betsy, Loree and Duke but we miss them. This week we get some pet time at our lovely Italian villa. Leo likes to run and throw the ball with Xara in the olive trees. She's just a puppy and she and Leo are well matched in energy.

Today we head to the Academy in Florence for a look at David. Leo has been studying street art so we'll go from there to the studio of Clet who is the Florentine street artist of the moment. He creates stickers that he puts on street signs with humorous and political statements. It's illegal and they're removed but people love to try to spot them around the city. 

We have a few more days here then we are headed to Venice. Italy feels so different than Spain. Spain was incredibly vibrant and alive. Florence feels historical--the powerful things that happened here hundreds of years ago still seep into every day life. It's a more subdued feeling  than passionate Spain but just as beautiful.